Tuesday, May 31, 2011

Is travel to Manali in summer rewarding

The road from Keylong to Manali re-opened after six months in May 2011. But the BRO is still clearing the stretch  from Keylong to Rohtang. Tourists are being allowed only up to Marhi, as of last week of May. Rohtang pass is the reason why tourists flock to Manali in summer. Bu considering the crowds and the fact that being able to drive up to Rohtang pass is uncertain, is Manali worth the trouble?

First of all the distance from Delhi to Manali is 580 km on the route via Ropar, Bilaspur, and Mandi. The drive by car takes around 16 hours, with stops for lunch and tea. In summer, the weather is blistering hot  with dust storms all the way till Mandi. You will be very tired by the time you reach Manali.

When you reach Manali, instead of a charming hill station, you will be greeted by a concrete jungle with dirty narrow roads, and teeming crowds. The roads are choked with cars and people, just like perhaps Chandni Chowk in Delhi. Even the Log hut area, which is 3 km from the Mall and is supposed to  be un-crowded and calm, is not much better. In short, Manali in summer presents a ugly picture and is no different from any touristy hill station.

Rohtang pass is about 50 km from Manali. The road gets clogged with cars, with frequent jams. You should start before 6 am to avoid getting held up by traffic. The route crosses Kothi and Gulaba. After Kothi, the views of snow clad mountains is enchanting. But once you near Marhi, a claustrophobic scene of boisterous tourists and snow blackened with mud will hit you. If you were looking forward to a beautiful snow clad valley with view of Himalayan peaks, you will be disappointed and wish to retrace your journey.
Marhi

Yaks in Marhi


Para gliding at Rs 500 each ride, horse riding, skiing (very short slopes) are available in Marhi. There are food stalls offering instant noodles and beverages, but no other food. If the thought of riding a horse and making your way through crowds and slush does not excite you, you can chose to sit in the snow and watch the crazy crowds. Uncouth Indian tourists have no thought for protecting the hills; they simply litter the place without care. There no sign boards against littering or dust bins either!
Hidimba Temple, Manali

Within a 4 km radius of Manali, the places to visit are Hadimba temple, Vasisht temple with its hot springs, Manu temple and Buddhist monasteries. In peak season, there is a queue to get into the Hadimba temple. The interior of the tiny temple is rather plain with no carvings or paintings. There is no idol, only the foot prints of the devi and small brass idols.
Shiva Temple, Solang Valley
Solang Valley

Visit to Solang valley is more rewarding.  The shiva temple can be reached with a 2 km trek along a pebbled valley with mountains covered with forests on all sides. To reach the tiny temple, you have to cross a foot bridge across the river and climb few steps with icy water cascading down.  The temple is at the base of a waterfall, and a Shiva linga is formed from ice in winter, like in Amarnath. Horses are available for the feeble limbed. Adventure sports like paragliding and Zorbing Ball in Solang and river rafting are available. The Beas river makes for easy river rafting and even novices can try it. Actually it looked rather tame, even and old lady can enjoy it being no different from boating.
There is ski lift which costs Rs 400. The cable care will take you to the top where it is uncrowded, with grassy slopes and 180 degree views of snow clad peaks.
The Castle, Naggar

Naggar, is the old capital of Kullu and is about 20 km from Manali.  The Castle, built entirely in wood and stones, without mortar, and has been converted into a heritage hotel and Roerich House and Art gallery are worth visiting if you have time. Murlidhar Temple, Thawa is built in shikhara style and is 3 km far from Naggar village. It belongs to early medieval period. Tripura Sundri Temple is a massive wooden structure having three storeys. The top most storey of this pagoda type of temple has a canopy with a kalasa (pinnacle) at the top, crowned by a chhatra. Shiva temple (Gauri-Shankar) is about 4 km from Naggar, and can be reached from the highway with a 15 minute walk through a village road.

That about sums up Manali for those who do not intend to trek.